Wolfgang Puck Until my early 20s, artichokes for me were one of those vegetables that only grew in jars. You need a warm, sunny climate to grow these big edible buds of a variety of thistle, which - although available almost year-round - are just now entering their peak of season, which lasts through May. In Austria, we had to be content with small edible hearts of artichokes, pickled in vinegar or preserved in oil. Fortunately, my mother was a chef, and she always had a jar or two at the ready. Imagine my surprise, though, when, as a young chef in the Provencal town of Les Baux, I saw for the first time the fresh, softball-sized thistle buds. At first I thought they were some sort of exotic flower. Of course, being an inquisitive chef, I had to taste them raw, so I cut one open and tried a small slice. It was so bitter that I really puckered up. Then I set about to learn how to cook artichokes properly. My favorite way is to steam or boil them whole until their hearts are tender. Often, for an impressive appetizer, I'll add a breadcrumb-based stuffing that I pack in between each artichoke's leaves. However you cook artichokes whole, you eat them the same way. Starting at the bottom, pull the leaves out one by one, dipping their fleshy bases in a sauce - warm lemon butter, a vinaigrette dressing, Hollandaise sauce, or the buttery sauce I make with the cooking liquid in my recipe here - and then scraping the flesh from the leaf between your teeth. Finally, you'll expose the fibrous, inedible choke in the center. Use a spoon to scrape it out and discard it. What remains is the completely edible heart, which you can cut and eat with a knife and fork, dipping each bite into the sauce. Some people complain that cooking artichokes takes too long - up to an hour for a good-sized specimen. That's why I like to use a pressure cooker. To adapt this recipe to that convenient appliance, stuff the artichokes before cooking. Following the manufacturer's instructions, secure the lid and bring the pressure cooker to high pressure. Set the timer, reduce the heat to low, and cook the artichokes for 10 minutes, at which point they'll be tender. Then, follow instructions to release the pressure safely before proceeding with the final recipe steps. Whichever cooking approach you take, I'm sure you'll be delighted and will want to make them again.
Try varying the stuffing recipe - adding different herbs, incorporating more Parmesan into the stuffing, or elaborating it with minced anchovies or chopped ham - to give you plenty of fresh artichoke experiences during the next several months. ARTICHOKES STUFFED WITH FRESH HERBS, BREADCRUMBS AND PARMESAN 2 cups chicken broth or vegetable broth In a saucepan large enough to hold the artichokes side by side, combine the chicken broth, lemon juice and a pinch of salt. With a sharp stainless-steel knife, cut off the artichoke stems flush with the bases and cut off the top third of each artichoke. With kitchen scissors, trim off the sharp tips of the remaining leaves. Once each artichoke has been trimmed, place it upside down in the liquid, where the lemon juice's acidity will keep the cut surfaces from discoloring. Bring the liquid in the pot to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to a simmer, cover, and cook 30 to 35 minutes. With a slotted spoon, lift them from the pan to a plate and leave them until they are cool enough to handle, put the pot of liquid aside. While the artichokes are cooling, make the stuffing. In a food processor with the stainless-steel blade, chop the garlic and scrape down the sides of the bowl. Add the breadcrumbs, mint or basil, pepper, and 1 teaspoon salt. Pulse several times to combine the ingredients. Carefully remove the blade and put it aside, leaving the mixture in the bowl. Place the cooled artichokes upright on a work surface. With your fingers, spread the leaves apart and distribute the stuffing mixture between the leaves and inside the middle of each artichoke, packing it in tightly. Return the artichoke to the pan of cooking liquid, stuffing side up. Bring to a boil over high heat; then, reduce the heat, cover tightly, and simmer until the artichokes are tender enough for you to pull out a leaf easily, about 10 minutes. Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 200 degrees. Carefully transfer the artichokes to an ovenproof platter. Brush them with the olive oil and sprinkle with the Parmesan. Put them in the oven to keep warm while you complete the sauce. For the sauce, strain the cooking liquid through a sieve into a small saucepan. Over high heat, bring the liquid to a boil and continue boiling until it has reduced by half, about 10 minutes. Reduce the heat to medium and whisk in the butter piece by piece. Continue simmering a few minutes more, until the sauce is syrupy. To serve, remove the artichokes from the oven and transfer to individual serving plates. Spoon the sauce over and around each artichoke and serve immediately. © Copyright 2003-2006 by Findlay Living™ and DynamiKComm, Inc. |
